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AQL STANDARD FOR GARMENT INDUSTRY
What is the "AQL"?
How to use the "AQL tables" and design a sampling plan (for quality control)
The "AQL tables" are statistical tools at the disposal of customers (for product inspections). They help determine two key elements:
1. How many samples should be inspected?
2. Where is the limit between acceptability and refusal, when it comes to defective products?
The need for an objective measurement of quality
In virtually every production batch, there will be defective products. It is true even after the manufacturer has checked each individual product and has repaired the defective ones. Thus, in a supplier/buyer relationship, the supplier cannot be expected to deliver defect-free goods. However, the buyer wants to control the quality of purchased goods, since customer does not want too many defects. But what does "too many" mean?
How to set the limit between acceptability and refusal in a way that can be agreed upon and measured?
Definition and application of 'AQL'
The limit, as described above, is called the 'AQL'. It stands for 'Acceptance Quality Level', and is defined as the "quality level that is the worst tolerable". For example: "I want no more than 1.5 level defective items in the whole order quantity" means the AQL is 1.5 level. In practice, three types of defects are distinguished. For most consumer goods, the limits are:
0 level for critical defects (totally unacceptable: a user might get harmed, or regulations are not respected).
1.5 / 2.5 level for major defects (these products would usually not be considered acceptable by the end user).
2.5 / 4.0 level for minor defects (there is some departure from specifications, but most users would not mind it).
These proportions vary in function of the product and its market. Components used in building an airplane are subject to much lower AQL limits.
Getting familiar with the AQL tables**
Before using the AQL tables, you should decide on three parameters:
The 'lot size'. If you ordered different products, the quantity of each product is a lot size, and separate inspections should be carried out for each lot. If you ordered only one product, the lot size is your total order quantity.
The inspection level
Different inspection levels will command different number of samples to inspect. In this article, we will stick to the so-called "normal" inspection level.
The AQL level appropriate for your market. If your customers accept very few defects, you might want to set a lower AQL for both major and minor defects.There are basically two tables. The first one tells you which 'code letter' to use. Then, the code letter will give you the sample size and the maximum numbers of defects that can be accepted.
First table: sample size code letters 
How to read this table? It is very easy.
If you follow my example, I assume your 'lot size' is comprised between 3,201pcs and 10,000pcs, and that your inspection level is 'normal'. Consequently, the code letter is "L".
Second table: single sampling plans for normal (level II) inspection 
How to read this table?
Your code letter is "L", so you will have to draw 200pcs randomly from the total lot size.
Besides, I assume you have set your AQL at 2.5% for major defects and 4.0% for minor defects. Therefore, here are the limits: the products are accepted if NO MORE than 10 major defects AND NO MORE than 14 minor defects are found.
For example, if you find 15 major defects and 12 minor defects, the products are refused. If you find 3 major defects and 7 minor defects, they are accepted.
Note: in quality inspections, the number of defects is only one of the criteria. It is sometimes called "quality", or "quality findings". The other criteria that should be passed include:
Packaging conformity (barcodes, inner packing, cartons, shipping marks...).
Product conformity (aspect, workmanship...). If all the products are in red color instead of orange, there is no need to count each sample as a defect. It makes more sense to refuse for product conformity.
Specific tests defined in the inspection protocol (they might not be performed on all samples).
AQL requirements based on the products
In general cases the buyer will determine which sampling plan and what AQL to adopt.
The AQL 1.5 is applied when severe inspection conditions are required on high-class expensive items.
The AQL 2.5 is applied when textiles of normal/good quality are involved.
There are three types of sampling plans: i.e. single, double and multiple sampling plans. Each sampling plan can be performed at three levels, i.e. normal, tightened and reduced, depending on inspection requirements and quality of the products. In the garments industry generally single and double normal sampling plans are applied. Therefore only examples of these two will be provided. The sample size code letter table shows various lot sizes corresponding to a serious of code letters. There are seven inspection levels, four for general inspection and three for special inspection. For garment inspection, general inspection level II (normal II) is normally applied.
Single sampling plan - Normal inspection:
Assurance an AQL of 2.5 % and a lot size of 1200 garments and the sample size is 80 garments. If the number of defective garments found is 5 the total lot is "Acceptable" suppose if the defective garments found is 6, the total lot is "Reject/ Re-Check".
Double sampling plan - Normal Inspection:
Assurance an AQL 4.0% and a lot size is 1200 garments and the sample size is 80 garments. If the Number of defective garments found is 7, the total lot is "Acceptable" suppose if the defective garments found is 8 the total lot is "Reject/ Re-Check".
Total garments (lot Size) 1200 garments
Sample size (selected for inspection) 80 garments
AQL 2.5 / 4.0
If the major defective found is 5 and minor defective found is 7 the total garments is "Acceptable". If the defective exceed (Above 5 major and 7 Minor), the total garments is Reject / Re-check.
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